Entry-level Ulysse Nardin Freak watch features Grand Feu enamel dial
Donzé Cadrans is going for something jaw-dropping.
Ulysse Nardin has given its most affordable Freak watch a fresh look with a blue enamel dial and rose gold case. The brand has released three Freak watches with enamel dials in the past two years, but all were limited editions that were small-batch, retailer-exclusive. The Freak X Gold Enamel watch is not a retailer-exclusive.
This watch fully demonstrates Ulysse Nardin's investment in silicon manufacturing and dial production, and it pays off. The combination of traditional craftsmanship and cutting-edge technology also makes it more acceptable to traditionalists than the typical Freak watch.
Although the Ulysse Nardin Freak watch has been on the market for nearly 25 years, it still maintains avant-garde style in terms of aesthetics and technology. The look and texture of the Freak watch are more like a small-batch concept watch than the collector's item it has become today. It's hard to believe that you can walk into a retail store and buy such a watch from a big Swiss brand for less than six figures.
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A little-known subtlety is the use of clear sapphires, rather than the more common reddish-purple rubies. It’s rare for brands to coordinate the gemstone color with the rest of the watch, but it always creates a more cohesive look. As well as being stunning, this watch is surprisingly practical, with a well-sized case, excellent luminous effects and water resistance to 50 meters. All in all, this is a well-rounded watch, although the enamel dial is more expensive than the regular Freak X Rose.
Donzé Cadrans’s Freaky Behavior
As with other Freak watches, the balance bridge rotates once an hour and doubles as the minute hand; the hour disc below it also doubles as the dial, rotating once every twelve hours. In this case, the hour disc is enamelled in blue and features an embossed sunray pattern.
Ulysse Nardin’s dial atelier, Donzé Cadrans, is responsible for the hour disc, which is crafted from 22K rose gold, which is thermally stable enough to be kiln-fired. Unlike a normal dial, the hour disc is also one of the movement’s structural plates, and the back has multiple threaded holes for screws, which undoubtedly makes the process more complicated.
Case and Movement
The 43mm case is very similar to the other cases in the Freak X series; it is flatter than the specifications suggest, as most of the height is in the box-section sapphire crystal.
The case is made of titanium with a blue PVD coating, while the sides are made of solid rose gold, giving it the texture of a pure precious metal watch without losing its high price and weight. The rotor is also made of rose gold through the caseback, which complements it.
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The UN-230 movement is the mildest movement in the Freak series so far, especially compared to the UN-251 movement in the Freak S. It is still cutting-edge, with a silicon escapement, hairspring and balance wheel made by Sigatec. The movement’s finishing process may be a little industrial, but it still fits the Freak aesthetic perfectly.
While retaining the original Freak's iconic rotating structure, the Freak X also adds some highly acclaimed high-quality life functions, such as a normal crown for winding and automatic winding function.
Ulysse Nardin Freak X Gold Enamel Watch
Ref. 2305-270LE-3AE-BLUE/1A
Diameter: 43 mm
Thickness: 13.38 mm
Material: Blue PVD titanium and rose gold
Mirror: Sapphire
Waterproof: 50 meters
Movement: Cal. UN-230
Functions: Hours and minutes
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 72 hours
Strap: Blue alligator leather with rose gold stitching
[img]https://www.moon-watch.co/images/Ulysse ... LUE-1A.jpg[/img]
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